Vegan Mei Cai Kou Rou 素梅菜扣肉

This is the dish that taught me plant based cooking could hold its own at a New Year table. The original 扣肉 is pork belly and preserved mustard greens, steamed until it surrenders, then inverted onto a plate so the glossy layers face up, the great ta da of Chinese home cooking. My version layers taro and tofu in the same alternating pattern, and when the bowl flips and the dark, fragrant 梅菜 slides down over the top, the table goes quiet in exactly the same way. Make it for people who think they know what tofu can do.

Serves 4 to 6, as part of a table.

Ingredients

• 1 cup dried preserved mustard greens (梅干菜), rinsed well and soaked 30 minutes
• 1 block firm tofu (about 14 ounces), cut into 1/3 inch slabs
• 1 pound taro (芋头), peeled, cut into 1/3 inch half moons
• Neutral oil for frying
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon grated ginger
• 2 tablespoons light soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1/2 cup hot water
• 1 star anise

Steps

1. Fry the tofu slabs in shallow oil until golden on both sides. Fry the taro slices until golden at the edges. Set both aside. This step is what lets them hold their shape through the steam.
2. Squeeze the soaked 梅干菜 dry and chop roughly. Sizzle the garlic and ginger in a little oil, add the greens and stir fry 2 minutes. Add both soy sauces, the sugar, star anise and hot water, and simmer 5 minutes.
3. In a deep heatproof bowl, alternate slices of taro and tofu in overlapping rows, packed snugly. Pour the greens and all their sauce over the top.
4. Steam over boiling water for 1 hour, until the taro is completely tender. Rest 10 minutes.
5. The ta da: pour off the braising liquid into a small pan, set a plate over the bowl and invert in one confident motion. Reduce the liquid to a glaze and pour it back over. Serve with rice.